Challenging Lips: Case Studies

Lip blush is skyrocketing in the PMU scene, making dreamy, rosy lips a top-notch wish list item. Picture waking up to that fresh pop of vibrant color—talk about goals! But let's keep it real—working on lips is a tricky business. The technical and design challenges are no joke, and it can take a good chunk of time to really nail it. Between the sensitive tissue and the endless color possibilities, it's a wild ride.

Three of our PRO Team artists are bringing you some of their most challenging, real-deal case studies so you can level up your own lip blush game without the years-long learning curve. We've got you covered on all aspects of each procedure from start to finish.

Understanding your lip pigments and how to choose your colors is a crucial part of any lip blush service. Both of our signature lip collections showcase the benefits of hybrid, organic-based formulas at their best.

Featuring 12 modern color shades precisely crafted to align with today's trends, these pigments are highly concentrated for maximum color saturation. Use each color independently or mix and match to create custom blends that suit each unique client. Get to know our vibrant reds, pinks, and corals with the Lust Pigment Collection. For those who prefer everyday nudes to bold berry tones, the Envy Pigment Collection is your perfect match.

We know color selection can be tricky, so to simplify your process, we provide a free digital color chart, ensuring you find the perfect hues effortlessly. Dive into the world of possibilities – it's your canvas, your expression!

Before we get too deep into the intricacies of lip pigments and color choices, join us on a journey through three particularly challenging lip blush case studies meticulously handled by different artists of our PRO Team. Navigating the tough nuances of each case, these narratives unfold the artistry and expertise involved in obtaining that perfect pout.

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Ramona Krusinskiene is not just a Tina Davies PRO Team artist and instructor on The Collective, she’s also an award-winning PMU educator based in Falkirk, Scotland. A mother of two and a dedicated entrepreneur, she is recognized for both her technical precision and caring nature. Ramona's journey in PMU began from a passion for beauty, aiming to make a positive impact in people's lives. Through her studio, Mona Aesthetics Studio, she specializes in creating natural-looking enhancements.

In this case, Ramona faced a unique challenge when she met a mature woman with a history of cleft lip surgeries, lacking a defined lip shape. The client's mature, wrinkled skin exhibited noticeable asymmetry and scarring from past surgical repairs. The absence of a natural lip contour due to the cleft lip and palate condition, coupled with skin sensitivity and scarring, demanded a delicate approach. Ramona sought out to navigate the complexities of both skin conditions to create a visually pleasing lip shape.

The procedure held considerable significance for Ramona's client, who had lived her whole life without a defined lip shape due to the cleft lip. With fair skin, red hair, and a history of sensitivity, Ramona took special care in selecting the appropriate needle and technique. This meticulous consideration aimed at achieving the best outcome without causing any excess trauma to the client's skin. The procedure went beyond enhancing beauty; it was a personalized approach to address both the aesthetic and emotional aspects of the client's situation. For Ramona, it was about not only enhancing beauty but also contributing to the emotional healing of past traumas associated with her client's appearance.

Ramona's client expressed a primary desire to achieve a natural-looking lip contour, aiming to define her lips for the first time in her life. The client wanted a shape that would complement her features and reflect her inner beauty externally. The goal was to create symmetry and fullness while softening the appearance of scars, using colors that would harmonize with her natural skin and hair tones, subtly enhancing her overall appearance. With fair skin naturally suited to cooler lip colors, the client expressed a preference for something more earthy/cinnamon-based, aligning with the colors she uses daily.

This vibrant redhead in her 60’s with Fitzpatrick Type 1 skin brought unique considerations to the table. The client's skin analysis revealed dry and sensitive skin, matured with wrinkles, and marked by scarring from both cold sores and past surgeries. These characteristics demanded a meticulous approach to the procedure, emphasizing a gentle touch and pigments that would ensure even coverage while minimizing the risk of irritation. The client had not properly prepped her skin for the initial procedure, resulting in extra dryness.

For the first procedure, Ramona chose a mix of colors from the Envy Lip Collection, using Cinnamon and Wine (50/50) for the contour and Nude mixed with Wine (90/10) for the main color. These pigments were selected for their warm undertones with the addition of Wine for better depth and to complement her client's skin's cooler undertones.

Ramona's approach to this challenging case was tailored to create a soft, natural look and provide the definition her client lacked. Recognizing the unique challenges, she carefully mapped out a symmetrical lip shape, considering existing scars and asymmetry. Ramona employed a technique involving a slow device speed and a thin needle. She skillfully glided through the skin in smooth motions, maintaining a consistent depth. The focus was on creating a subtle gradient to give the lips dimension without appearing overdone.

Ramona's procedure began with a template drawing, aiming to incorporate as much natural lip as possible while being mindful not to exceed the vermilion border. Working with scar tissue poses challenges, and Ramona checked the client's movements by having her talk, smile, frown, and open and close her lips to ensure symmetry. Translucent powder was applied to the template to prevent loss during contouring. For contouring and shading, Ramona used overlapping strokes for a smooth and crisp continuous line. Pointillism was applied in scarred areas to enhance pigment saturation with less trauma, increasing the chances of color retention. Slow hand movement and a slow device speed (mainly 4.2V) were utilized for shading, working in sections to minimize the need for additional layers and improve pigment implantation before swelling. Numbing was applied initially only on the contour area and again after the first pass of shading across the entire lip. The shading process involved a pendulum movement, ensuring consistent needle placement for maximum pigment absorption. Despite the challenges of lip drying making even pigment implantation difficult, Ramona achieved satisfactory results. She opts for a gradual approach to observe how the color heals, prioritizing multiple treatments over a single session to avoid undesired color tones or visible imperfections.

Ramona employed a meticulous approach to her procedures, adapting tools for optimal results. In the initial session, she utilized a PIXL 0.25mm 1RL LT Needle Cartridge paired with the Mast P10 device at a speed of 5V. This configuration provided precise pigment placement while being gentle on the client's sensitive skin.

The results immediately after the procedure showed a significant improvement in lip definition and symmetry. The contour blended nicely during healing to leave a natural appearance. The chosen pigments healed into a natural shade that complemented her skin tone and hair color beautifully, achieving a harmonious and balanced look. While the color evenness was still in progress, the overall shape and contour enhancements were evident.

Recognizing the importance of optimal skin preparation, Ramona provided detailed pre-care instructions for the upcoming second procedure. These instructions included hydration, alcohol avoidance, coffee abstinence, and diligent moisturization with A&D ointment. Additionally, the client was advised to incorporate non-abrasive lip exfoliation one week before the next procedure for the best possible results.

During the second procedure, Ramona made adjustments to the main color, using an 80/20 mix of Envy Cinnamon and Wine to darken the hue slightly. Also at this session, she carefully used a tiny bit of white pigment for strategic contouring above the cupid's bow to enhance definition and hide redness. It is important to note that even for extremely experienced artists, this technique requires significant caution and is for specific cases only. She only ever uses this technique in unique cases like this where clients have scarring in order to help separate lip contour from scarred tissue. This allows for visual separation, allowing Ramona to use natural colors and still achieve high definition.

The client experienced less swelling after the second session. For the upcoming third procedure, Ramona plans to refine the contour sharpness and address any uneven color areas. The goal will be to adjust pigment concentration in lighter areas to achieve a more uniform appearance. The technique and needle selection will remain consistent, with adjustments made based on the healed results and client feedback to perfect the final outcome.

By addressing each aspect with care and precision, this case showcases the transformative power of PMU in challenging cases, emphasizing Ramona’s artist's skill in adapting techniques and pigment choices to meet the unique needs of each client.

Next up, let’s step into the world of Mei Zhou, a Toronto-based PMU artist, educator, and another esteemed member of the Tina Davies PRO Team. Mei's journey at PMU began in 2018 when she took a big leap from a full-time banking career to a path of creativity and artistry. By 2024, Mei had amassed an impressive 19X certifications for eyebrows, eyeliner, and lips, acquired through immersive in-person trainings conducted across diverse locations.

Embracing the power of PMU, Mei sees it as more than a cosmetic enhancement – but as a tool to inspire and connect with women globally. Leveraging the reach of social media, Mei shares her expertise and collaborates with fellow PMU artists worldwide.

Mei’s case shares some similarities with Ramona’s, as her client Alice also had evident asymmetry and scarring resulting from childhood surgical lip repair. The challenge at hand was to provide enhanced definition to the upper lip while neutralizing the dark tones.

Before

A particular focus was on Alice's generally dry lips, a condition that prompted Mei to recommend regular lip moisturization ahead of the service. In light of Alice's history of cold sores, Mei also recommended that she look into prescription anti-viral medication, advising that she schedule a consultation with her physician.

Alice's aspirations were clear – she sought more definition for her lips, especially the upper lip bearing scars from past lip repair surgery. With a desire for a newly crafted cupid's bow, Alice wanted to brighten the dark tone of her natural lips, expressing a desire for pinky-coral tones.

Mei's keen eye completed a thorough analysis of Alice's skin, revealing a Fitzpatrick Type 3 with a neutral undertone. At 28 years old, Alice's skin was a blank canvas, normal in texture with small pores, and ready for enhancement. Mei's commitment to a comprehensive approach shone through, with proactive pre-care instructions playing a key role.

In Mei's studio, Munique Brows, Tina Davies' Lust & Envy Lip Collections take center stage for all lip procedures. Her technique involved blending original pigments, applied with Vaseline on both the client's lip and chin for a preview. Mei clarified that achieving the desired color in the initial session might be a journey. Educating her clients on the process, she assured Alice that any adjustments could be made during the touch-up session, emphasizing her dedication to clear communication. Mei chose Lust Orange Coral for the first pass to counteract the brown tones, and Lust Pink Coral to add a pink touch.

Mei's approach in the initial session revolved around the meticulous reconstruction of the cupid's bow and the delicate task of neutralizing the dark tones. Guided by the client's approval of the mapped-out lip shape, Mei ventured into the procedure. To combat the dark tones, she used Orange Coral for the first pass. The second pass involved a 50/50 mix of Orange Coral and Pink Coral for a punch of more pink. Challenges surfaced with the inner lip being a bit drier, which inevitably impacts pigment implantation. Mei transparently communicated potential lower retention in those dry areas and stressed the importance of better pre-care for future treatments.

Mei strategically used various needle cartridges throughout the different stages of the procedure. For the initial session, she utilized the PIXL 0.30mm 1RL LT Needle Cartridge for both outline and shading. This choice reflected her meticulous approach, aiming to test how the healing process would unfold with the use of a single needle.

Mei's initial session resulted in a softer color compared to the client's original lips. However, challenges arose during healing as the client didn't follow all pre-care instructions, leading to cold sores and pigment loss in some areas. Reinforcing pre-care measures for the touch-up session proved effective, with improved pigment implantation and the complete neutralization of dark tones.

As Mei looked back on the aftermath of the first session, she saw it as a learning curve. She realized there were tweaks to be made in her technique, cartridge setups, and even the pigments used. Considering the dry conditions and unique aspects of the client's lip, Mei had anticipated potential hiccups, especially in the inner lip's retention.

In the subsequent touch-up session, Mei adjusted her tool selection, opting for the PIXL 0.30mm 1RL LT Needle Cartridge for the outline and introducing the 0.25mm 3RS LT Needle Cartridge for shading. This adjustment allowed her to achieve more coverage, especially in the inner lip area, which retained the least pigment from the initial session. Mei also refined the pigment formula, transitioning to a 30% Orange Coral and 70% Pink Coral mix.

As the procedure approached the annual refresher session (12 months later), Mei transitioned to the PIXL 0.35mm 1RL LT Needle Cartridge for both outline and shading. She incorporated an extra pass at the inner lip, anticipating potential challenges related to lower pigment retention due to dryness. She also introduced Envy Pink Rose to add a kick more of blushy pink.

Stephanie Jackson, fondly known as SJ or SJbrows, calls the vibrant city of London, UK, her creative home. With nearly 15 years immersed in the world of PMU she proudly owns a decade-strong business and is a proud Tina Davies PRO Team artist. Stephanie has been a witness to the evolution of the industry, cherishing her role in its incredible journey from day 1. Her genuine love for the craft is evident, as she lives and breathes the art of permanent makeup.

In a recent case, Stephanie’s client arrived with severe scarring and pigment loss resulting from laser removal. The client had previously undergone a botched lip blush procedure which left her with a color that was way too dark for her and required her to resort to laser removal. Unfortunately, this laser intervention left her with scars around the borders and within the body of her lips. Additionally, over time, the client observed a loss of color post-laser, adding another layer of complexity to the challenge.

Unsurprisingly, this client faced heightened anxiety due to the previous bad experience. Stephanie transparently informed her client about all expectations for post-treatment. Acknowledging that fair-skinned clients tend to be more reactive to lip blush procedures, Stephanie took extra care to manage expectations and address all the client's concerns in light of her past situation.

Stephanie's client was wary of the color being too dark for her after her previous experience and emphasized the importance of a lighter, more subtle look. The client's main priority was achieving a natural appearance without it looking like she had makeup on her lips during days when she opted for a makeup-free look. Given the client's light eyes and hair, Stephanie recognized that pink tones would complement her best, adding a touch of color to her skin.

Stephanie assessed her client's skin, revealing characteristics that needed special consideration. With sensitive skin and a Fitzpatrick Type 1-2, this client showcased fair features with light eyes and hair. Stephanie recognized the dry-to-combination nature of her skin, a factor that generally aligns well with lip blushing. This comprehensive understanding of the client's skin type allows Stephanie to tailor the procedure for optimal results with a personalized approach.

After conducting an extensive and detailed consultation, both Stephanie and her client were aligned on the objective: to craft a lip color that harmonized with the client's pale skin tone without overpowering it, while also effectively blending the existing scarring into the natural lip tissue. Stephanie's choice comprised a blend of three distinct pigments: Envy Wine, Lust Perfect Pink, and a touch of Envy Pink Rose.

Perfect Pink formed the foundation. However, recognizing that it alone wouldn't provide sufficient coverage for the scars and pigment loss, Stephanie introduced Pink Rose. Yet, using Pink Rose alone risked being too bold for the client's preferences at this stage. To strike the perfect balance, Stephanie incorporated Wine into the mix, leveraging it as a "cooling agent." Despite its intimidating appearance, Wine is more versatile than it looks and played a crucial role in achieving the ideal blushed cool pink hue.

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